electrical box too high for ceiling fixture I've got a bit of a dilemma with walls that are thicker than what the original electrical layout allowed for. All of the boxes (switches, light fixtures, outlets, etc.) are anchored to studs and/or rafters and set at a depth that would be fitting for some thin paneling or drywall. Stainless Steel Lunch Box. Interior made from high quality food-grade stainless steel SS304 which will never rust and is naturally BPA-free. Does not retain flavors or scents, so you can use it over & over again.
0 · shallow box sticking out of ceiling
1 · loose box for ceiling light
2 · light box for ceiling light
3 · electrical box sticking out of ceiling
4 · electrical box for ceiling lights
5 · boxes recessed too deep
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I've got a bit of a dilemma with walls that are thicker than what the original electrical layout allowed for. All of the boxes (switches, light fixtures, outlets, etc.) are anchored to studs and/or rafters and set at a depth that would be fitting for some thin paneling or drywall.It is a plastic round box, with those adjustable ceiling brace with ends .
The box is hanging down at an angle. I opened the box and found that one side of it is secured to what I hope is a cross brace. The other side is not secured. Also, the ceiling flexes upwards in this area when I push on it. Is . It is a plastic round box, with those adjustable ceiling brace with ends secured to the ceiling joists. A couple of issues. (1) The box is mounted recessed from the ceiling sheet rock, by quite a bit. (2) The box is mounted .I'm replacing a light fixture with a flush mount fixture and the fixture sags bc the box is loose. There are no screws in the box to tighten to make it not sag. Any suggestions besides paying .
It's clearly too small of a canopy, so blame it on the customer. FWIW, you can fix that in 60 seconds with white caulk. Go right over the wing of the box to hide it. Put some . Most ceiling boxes are large enough: The NEC dictates how many wires and clamps you can safely put in an electrical box. Typical 1-1/2 to 2-in. deep octagonal or round ceiling boxes are quite large and overcrowding is .
I’m going to show you how to install an electrical box in the ceiling so that you can install a new light fixture securely. You'll find that fluorescent ligh.
The electric code requires that the gap around electrical boxes be repaired if greater than 1/8". You could cut out a 12" square and install a piece to patch the area. Fixture support seem to work out best if you will orient the pan so that the screws form a vertical line rather than horizontal. May not be possible due to wire feeding knockouts - .
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I finally hung my finished ceiling and to my chagrin I discovered that my ceiling fan boxes were mounted too deeply. Of course, I noticed this after I hung the drywall and . I've got a bit of a dilemma with walls that are thicker than what the original electrical layout allowed for. All of the boxes (switches, light fixtures, outlets, etc.) are anchored to studs and/or rafters and set at a depth that would be fitting for some thin paneling or drywall.
The box is hanging down at an angle. I opened the box and found that one side of it is secured to what I hope is a cross brace. The other side is not secured. Also, the ceiling flexes upwards in this area when I push on it. Is there a way to . It is a plastic round box, with those adjustable ceiling brace with ends secured to the ceiling joists. A couple of issues. (1) The box is mounted recessed from the ceiling sheet rock, by quite a bit. (2) The box is mounted crooked, but the ceiling is sloped. It's too easy for something to get stuck in there (even on the ceiling) and the person holding the thing to get electrocuted. Normally, there would be a decorative "rose" or "cover" provided with a ceiling lamp that is designed to hide the inside of the box.
Possible solutions so far: Expand the hole beneath the electrical box to attach a 4" diameter box extension. This would add stable new ears with new threads, near the current ceiling surface. Probably means re-threading the old box's ears, . I'm replacing a light fixture with a flush mount fixture and the fixture sags bc the box is loose. There are no screws in the box to tighten to make it not sag. Any suggestions besides paying an electrician hundreds of dollars are welcome.
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It's clearly too small of a canopy, so blame it on the customer. FWIW, you can fix that in 60 seconds with white caulk. Go right over the wing of the box to hide it. Put some masking tape on the canopy while applying the caulk to keep . Most ceiling boxes are large enough: The NEC dictates how many wires and clamps you can safely put in an electrical box. Typical 1-1/2 to 2-in. deep octagonal or round ceiling boxes are quite large and overcrowding is rarely a problem.I’m going to show you how to install an electrical box in the ceiling so that you can install a new light fixture securely. You'll find that fluorescent ligh. The electric code requires that the gap around electrical boxes be repaired if greater than 1/8". You could cut out a 12" square and install a piece to patch the area.
I've got a bit of a dilemma with walls that are thicker than what the original electrical layout allowed for. All of the boxes (switches, light fixtures, outlets, etc.) are anchored to studs and/or rafters and set at a depth that would be fitting for some thin paneling or drywall. The box is hanging down at an angle. I opened the box and found that one side of it is secured to what I hope is a cross brace. The other side is not secured. Also, the ceiling flexes upwards in this area when I push on it. Is there a way to .
It is a plastic round box, with those adjustable ceiling brace with ends secured to the ceiling joists. A couple of issues. (1) The box is mounted recessed from the ceiling sheet rock, by quite a bit. (2) The box is mounted crooked, but the ceiling is sloped. It's too easy for something to get stuck in there (even on the ceiling) and the person holding the thing to get electrocuted. Normally, there would be a decorative "rose" or "cover" provided with a ceiling lamp that is designed to hide the inside of the box. Possible solutions so far: Expand the hole beneath the electrical box to attach a 4" diameter box extension. This would add stable new ears with new threads, near the current ceiling surface. Probably means re-threading the old box's ears, .
I'm replacing a light fixture with a flush mount fixture and the fixture sags bc the box is loose. There are no screws in the box to tighten to make it not sag. Any suggestions besides paying an electrician hundreds of dollars are welcome. It's clearly too small of a canopy, so blame it on the customer. FWIW, you can fix that in 60 seconds with white caulk. Go right over the wing of the box to hide it. Put some masking tape on the canopy while applying the caulk to keep . Most ceiling boxes are large enough: The NEC dictates how many wires and clamps you can safely put in an electrical box. Typical 1-1/2 to 2-in. deep octagonal or round ceiling boxes are quite large and overcrowding is rarely a problem.I’m going to show you how to install an electrical box in the ceiling so that you can install a new light fixture securely. You'll find that fluorescent ligh.
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electrical box too high for ceiling fixture|shallow box sticking out of ceiling