turning guitar amp head into metal box I'm considering the idea of taking the amp out of my Traynor YGM-3 combo and building a head enclosure for it. That way I can match it up with other cabs and also use it in . You must size pull boxes, junction boxes, and conduit bodies large enough so a crew can install the conductors without damaging them. For conductors 4 AWG and larger, you size pull boxes, junction boxes, and conduit bodies per Sec. 314.28.
0 · [GEAR] Turning (Marshall MG100DFX Combo) into a head :
1 · Turning a combo into a head
2 · Turning a Peavey Classic 30 into a head?
3 · Metal Enclosures for Amp Head Builds : r/DIYGuitarAmps
4 · How to build an amp head enclosure???
5 · How to Setup a Guitar Rack System with the Proper Cases
6 · How do you organize your amp heads?
7 · Guitar amp enclosure out of metal?
8 · Building an isolation box for a guitar cabinet
9 · Building amp heads and guitar cabinets?
The axle housing is cast iron, the tubes are steel and so is the actual axle inside. Cast is way too brittle to make the actual axle out of. You can bust it with a hammer. The housing's cheaper to make by casting it in a mold, than machining it from a block of steel.
I use head + closed cab, so I built a half open box that I can put my own cab face-down onto, instead of a complete isolation box around my cabinet. Also, I will try different types of adjustable openings to see if I can get a good attenuated tone out of the "isolation" box. Option 1 would be to saw across a couple of inches below the metal enclosure and cap it with a piece of wood at the bottom. Speakers would go in a separate cabinets. The other .You connect the earth/ground of the amplifier to the new chassis or any exposed metal parts and check if it makes good continuity. Make sure there is plenty of space below the amplifier in the .
I'm considering the idea of taking the amp out of my Traynor YGM-3 combo and building a head enclosure for it. That way I can match it up with other cabs and also use it in . I bought a 6505+ 112 combo from a guy that attempted to turn it into a head/cab configuration. He was no woodworker and I am a welder by trade, but definitely no electricion, .I like the current generation of lunchbox size amp heads like the EVH 5150 and would like to build ahead to that form factor, but cannot find any suppliers for a metal head enclosure. What you see here is the core of any guitar rack setup, with the preamp and power amp often combined into the amp head we showed you earlier. It's how almost every .
I'm in the process of building a tube amp head and I would also like to build the enclosure for the amp head, as well as a 2x12 cab. Could somebody kindly guide me to any . For your question 1, you should check out RADIAL products, they do these sort of things - connecting a single guitar to multiple amps, connecting multiple cabs to an . Basically turn it into a higher gain amplifier. If this is near impossible I can understand, but I'm really hoping to turn this into a main amp for a while until I buy an actual .To quote Brad's Guitar Garage from a Psionic Audio livestream on YouTube (timestamped for livestream comment source), who are both extremely experienced guitar techs and amp designers: "Common to almost all Mesa piles of shit: Voltage under-rated coupling caps, causing output failure. Power under-rated carbon composition resistors which burn the board.
Probably subjective, but some solid state amps I've heard with good metal tones: Peavey supreme 160 Peavey transtube amps/combos sound great Randall rg series (es if your shooting for the gray fuzzy amps) Marshall 8100 vavlestates Ampeg vh140/150 Crate gx130 Orange crush 100 Hiwatt crunch (currently have a 150 and love it) Blackstar silverline .OR15: the little orange that looks like a full orange. one channel, FX loop, full equalizer. i have one, i modded it to be 2 channel, which was doable, but a pain in the ass for someone with moderate electronics skills and knowledge like me. but this one sounds way better than the tiny and dark in my opinion. probably the best classic rock .
You don’t need a different amp. EVH 5150 is a great metal amp and you can get Metallica tones out of it. You don’t need active pickups but they help with clarity. Use your EQ more. Bass and treble up, mids set to mid. Get a tube screamer and use it to tighten up the amp gain (TS set to low gain, tone 5-7ish, volume 10).The springs also make a great antennae for picking up RFI and EMI. You should mount the whole thing in a metal tool box. Surfy Industries makes a great populated circuit board that handles all the ins and outs. I put one in a guitar cabinet I built. It costs less than but you do need to be a little bit solder friendly to connect pots, and .I still have Valvestate 100w, for almost two decades, and also Marshall JVM and Peavey 6505 heads and different boxes. I can easily emulate Marshalls gain sound by going with a Helix directly into power amp of JVM, and it sounds great.
I want to convert the old 50 amp line to a sub panel in the basement and put in separate 20 amp breakers for the stove and microwave. I am also adding a office in the basement for my guitar and computer gear and plan to pull off of this. The line that is there now drops down from the ceiling so it is not in the basement.Essentially, it takes your tube amp head and runs out a signal at line level into your Audio Interface (ie. Scarlett or Apollo Twin). Once you're in the DAW with your amp signal coming in, you can turn on something like Neural DSP and simply turn off the "amp section" of the VST and use the speaker cab sim.Amps are designed for the end user to be protected during normal operation. Changing tubes is an expected part of ownership. And changing a speaker does not void the warranty or present a danger. An amp designer would have to be sadistic and intentionally design an amp to hurt the end user during normal operation.
The best option is to have a power amp alongside the tonex. Nowadays there's even small format power amps that fit on your board. That way, you can straight up plug into a cab from your board. Turn off the cab sims if you do this and purely use the amp head simulation. Second option is to go from the tonex into the return of the amp that is .
Hello! I recently came in possession of a Marshal DSL1-HR. I love this head because I mainly just play by myself in my room. Feel like with this amp I can get a very good tone even with low volume. Ive read reviews that said the combo version of this amp was very bad (because of the single 6" speaker). However, with the proper cab this amp .find a power amp pedal like a Seymour Duncan PowerStage 170, but hopefully less expensive; maybe a Hughes & Kettner Stompman 50W, Quilter MicroBlock 45, Valeton Guitar Amplifier Head TAR-20G, or Electro-Harmonix 44 Magnum. instead of cramming everthing inside the cabient, put small wooden legs on the amp, and have the power amp pull out of a .
Imho the best starting place for metal tones come from a boost into a preamp, such as a Tube Scream pedal with drive at 0, tone up a bit, bass down, and gain up. That feeds into the crunch channel of an amp. You can emulate it very well with a Boss Katana but you will need to use Tone Studio, i.e. need a computer hooked up to it.
The Micro Dark will 100% not cut for thrash. Too mushy, fizzy, dark, etc. It is really shit. I wouldn’t go with an Orange for thrash. Buy used if you can a Marshall 2203-like circuit (even ENGLs - the ENGL Straight is a killer amp that I am searching for, killer tone, better than most expensive amps like Diezel, ENGLs, etc.).The marshall does not need to be on for it's speaker to work with a different amp. Just connect the speaker to the new amp and it'll work. Just make sure that the speakers impedance matches and has more wattage than the amp.An amp head is an amp without a speaker. Then you get a speaker in a separated box and plug it to the head. . Try turning your guitar's volume knob to around medium and your preamp to somewhere around medium with the knob that says "volume". . But the "little amps" or amp heads, are pretty much what turns the guitar signal into the noise .
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It depends. A classic "all tube" head no. They need a load attatched or they get flyback voltages that destroy the tubes. You can buy a stand-alone attenuator, resistive ones are cheap and work reasonably well to tame a ferociously loud amp, (partially)inductive ones sound better as a complete replacement for a speaker but they're very expensive, especially with a built in .You need to make sure your Ohms match. If your amp head has a 16 ohm speaker output, then match it to a 16 ohm speaker. If the amp has an 8 ohm jack, match it to an 8 ohm speaker. After that, the wattage of an amp is how much the amp can receive. A 100 watt amp will be fine to drive a 120 watt speaker.The answer lies in impedance and its sibling inductance, which affect AC signals like those that pass through your amp in use. The power tubes generate AC current, which works against the impedance offered by your output transformer and speaker .
Get something like a Captor X, UAD Ox, Suhr Reactive Load or similar device. You can plug pretty much any amp head into these, instead of a cabinet or in between the head and cab, and then pick whatever IR you want (there's pretty much an IR out there for every cab/speaker/mic option available).dont turn the amp on it has no load.. hook the new speaker cable to the head and bingo you have a 2x12 cab. i did it this way because the speakers already had a 1/4 jack that plugged into the amp. you could leave the oridginal cable on just .When you use something that has a cab sim, you either turn it off once you run through a guitar speaker cab, or get the signal through PA speakers. You don't want to run the signal through a cab sim, then through a cab because most of the times it ruins it. If you get a power amp, turn off the cab sim on your bias fx. i never use the DI on an amp head for anything other than sending to the FOH. i would always use a preamp or dedicated DI box for recording. Some amp heads have noisy outputs, almost all of them have more noise than a dedicated DI box. and most of the tone shaping done by preamps in amp heads is designed to be sent to a speaker. without the .
102K subscribers in the GuitarAmps community. Guitar & Bass Amps, discuss, share, and learn about amplifiers!You didn’t say which type of amp but if it is a tube amp: If you are talking about unplugging the speaker and plugging that into the interface then DONT. If your amp has a direct output (such as an xlr) then you can but generally still need the speaker cable connected for proper load.If “they” means the live show then you’re thinking of a PA system, which is almost never feeding the guitar’s direct input (d.i). usually it would be guitar plugged into the amp, which has its speaker or is plugged into a speaker cab, which is then recorded via a microphone and further amplified via a PA system, although directly .
An attenuator goes between the speaker output of the amp and the speaker. It allows you to turn an amp up to the point where you get an overdriven sound but keeps the output volume at a listenable level. Power soak is another name for it. It soaks up some of the power from the amp before it hits the speaker.
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[GEAR] Turning (Marshall MG100DFX Combo) into a head :
Turning a combo into a head
An electrical box, also known as a junction box, is an essential component in electrical installations. It serves as a protective enclosure for electrical connections, ensuring safety and preventing damage to the wiring system. Junction boxes come in various types, each designed for specific applications and environments.
turning guitar amp head into metal box|Turning a combo into a head